Whenever I belayed in guide’s mode with a Mega Jul, unless using ultra-skinny half ropes, I would yell expletives and get an unwanted shoulder workout. Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri , the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. The range is now exclusively assisted-braking only, hence the original Jul is no longer available. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. Edelrid’s Mega Jul & Micro Jul When WeighMyRack visited the Edelrid booth at the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show the Germans excitedly asked us, “Have you heard of our Mega Jul belay device?” I responded, “You mean the belay device that essentially has all the same functions of a GriGri … I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. T he Giga Jul from Edelrid is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. Passive assisted braking 3. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. The sides plates are constructed of lightweight aluminum that are attached to stainless steel braking grooves and slider. However, assisted braking devices have come a long way in recent years and are definitely worth considering the next time you replace your worn out ATC, Reverso or similar device. At the flip of a switch, the Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device changes from a standard tube device to an assisted braking device for more versatility whether you're climbing multi-pitch or sport. This makes it incredibly easy and intuitive for people transitioning from a more standard, tube-style device. With all the different belay devices on the market it can be hard to decide on a particular one. Rappelling in brake-assisted mode, both for a Mega Jul and Giga Jul, is something I will never enjoy and do not recommend. Three rappelling modes 4. Lightweight 2. Edelrid GigaJul Belay Device 5063-427. As in the manual brake mode the Giga Jul actually feeds rope fairly smoothly and quite easily. To achieve both styles of catching falls, the Giga Jul has a sliding plate in the middle of the device. Many gyms are requiring climbers to use assisted braking devices, but many people still prefer using ATCs for outdoor climbing. Simply put though, if both the thumb-catch on the device and the sliding plate are closer to you, then it is in tubular braking mode. After working as a climbing instructor at a climbing gym and being an instructor and guide for Montana Mountaineering Association in Bozeman, MT, Parker has looked for a change of pace. Other features of the Giga Jul include an anchoring hole to belay in guide’s mode and a small release hole to lower in guide’s mode. Also worth noting, will steel construction where the rope wears this device will last you far longer than aluminum counterparts (especially if you are in sandy climbing terrain). It’s worth noting that when rappelling in the assisted braking mode friction cannot be increased by adding an extra carabiner. The most versatile ever belay device. The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. With a specific geometry for sport climbing, the Edelrid Mega Jul Sport has been designed for slicker belaying - including with thicker ropes - than the original Mega Jul to make it better for smoother, faster rope handling, but still retains the high-braking performance In this day and age, choosing belay devices can be a bit of a head-scratcher. Quantity: Free shipping for this item Free store pickup Order online, get it at your local MEC. It is best to spend some time familiarizing yourself with which direction is assisted braking and which is non-assisted braking. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. I especially love the smooth assisted brake when rappelling and often take it with me on routes requiring technical descents or half ropes. It really shines in the assisted brake mode though! Top-Down, Direct Anchor Belay: When belaying a second up directly off an anchor with the Giga Jul, the rope seems to rub on the edges of the device even more than when belaying from below—even with skinny, sub-9mm single ropes. Parker started climbing in high school through a program called the Junior Mountaineering Team. With the Giga Jul, this need disappears, and this level of versatility is what … The new kid on the block. It took much longer than normal rappelling would. Since the release of the gigajul, the grigri gets much less use, outside of single pitch sport cragging. Better because you can pull the rope through the device faster than the with GriGri, making it easier to keep pace with a leader. The assisted braking thumb loop (the colored, covered section) gives you more control when you're lowering or rappelling. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. It is also very large in size compared to the Mega Jul. The device will likely outlast any traditional all-aluminum belay device but won’t last as long as an all-steel unit like the Mega Jul. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. Top reasons why people like Edelrid Mega Jul: 1. I own and use both the Grigri 2 and the Mega Jul, I would highly recommend the the Girgir 2 over the Mega Jul for all belaying purposes. Additionally, set up always lead to confusion wondering how the device is supposed to be attached to an anchor. The stated rope diameters that the Giga Jul uses are from 7.1 – 10mm – I’ve used it with my Edelrid Apus 7.9mm and my Edelrid Boa 9.8mm ropes and they have worked great (in case you are wondering about my over use on Edelrid ropes, they are one of the few rope manufacturers that have a blue sign certification on ropes – always a factor in purchasing choices). Despite a rocky start, Edelrid’s Mega Jul is now my belay device of choice for all alpine and multi-pitch rock climbing. Non-assisted brake mode for rappelling with the Mega Jul was confusing. Edelrid Mega Jul: 65 g. Petzl Reverso 4: 79 g. Black Diamond ATC Guide: 88 g. Petzl GriGri 2: 170 g *Being steel, I expect this device to last much longer than its aluminum cousins. Overall, however, the entire belaying process feels smoother with the Giga Jul, perhaps because of the larger size. It’s less noticeable when belaying from below, but more on that in the belay performance section below. The rappel is quite smooth, not at all jumpy like some assisted brake units can be and definitely smoother than the Mega Jul. Auto-locks even if brake end of rope Of course the top-down belay or guide-mode can only be used in the Manual position but it has an assisted brake anyway. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, 5 Tips and Tricks on How to Start Ice Climbing. The Giga Jul is a thousand times easier to feed slack through in guide’s mode and is only slightly more difficult than an ATC-Guide to attach to an anchor, having to pay attention to the sliding plate in the middle. Edelrid Mega Jul – Weight: 65 grams. Rotate the device 180 degrees and move the sliding plate closer to you again and it will be in assisted braking mode. It’s not without a few drawbacks though. However, the brilliance of the Giga Jul is having a device that can be configured to use tubular braking—using the friction of the device, like an ATC, to catch a fall—or using assisted braking to catch your climber. Edelrid Giga Jul je univerzální jistítko určené k jištění i slaňování, které v sobě snoubí funkci klasického kyblíku a poloautomatu.. Díky inteligentně řešenému posuvnému mechanismu jistítko jednoduše přepneme s poloautomatického do režimu klasického kyblíku a zpět.Provedete to pouhým zmáčknutím a posunutím zeleného přepínače. It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). You can gamble on something new that requires a bit of re-education or stick with what you already know. To do this we will look at each mode, individually commenting on performance starting with the Manual mode belaying from the bottom, the Assisted Brake mode from the bottom and lastly a top-down direct anchor belay. However, different belay devices offer different geometries which means that they have different sweet spots when it comes to rope diameter. Personally, I believe the best comparison to make for the Giga Jul is with the Mega Jul, which I view as its closest competitor. The Giga Jul can replace both your guide ATC and auto-locking device (like your grigri) all while still being able to do every action you need while climbing. The Edelrid Giga Jul is firmly on the thinner end of the spectrum by the ATC Alpine Guide, which is specifically designed for half and twin ropes. Edelrid says you can use 8.9mm single ropes or 7.9mm double ropes. Catching falls is not compromised in spite of being more efficient, and lowering is easier as well. ... We’ve already reviewed the Edelrid Giga Jul here, but in summary, the Giga Jul can do just about everything. However, move the switch over to the Assisted Brake position and it operates the same as the other Jul belay devices with assisted braking. At the flip of a switch, the Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device changes from a standard tube device to an assisted braking device for more versatility whether you're climbing multi-pitch or sport. But worse because when you do pull too fast, the cam locks in place and won't let you feed anymore until you man… Let’s discuss the Giga Jul, as it is initially a little complicated. It costs less and weighs less than a Grigi, and unlike that device it can be used with double ropes, ... Edelrid Giga Jul . The Giga Jul utilizes a hybrid design combining steel and aluminum. Because of the way the carabiner sits in a small cut-out of the side, the extra carabiner actually pulls the rope out further and reduces friction while defeating the assisted brake. To get a belay device that does it all in an efficient and small package makes the Giga Jul thoroughly worth considering. Through this program, he learned ice climbing, rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and alpine climbing skills. Lastly, in auto-block or guide mode, the Mega Jul adds more friction to the pull than other plaquette devices, especially with fat ropes. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. However, if I’m using a single rope I’ll also bring a stitch plate so I don’t need the Giga Jul for belaying my second up. Posted by Parker Webb | Gear Feature, Journal. In Manual mode the Giga Jul rappels much the same as any tube style belay device and provides a smooth ride so long as it’s paired with a nice round carabiner. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. The GigaJul is a dramatic improvement on the MegaJul as a guide plate. Black Sheep Adventure Sports was provided with a test sample for review but of course this did not influence us in any way. (I ended up making them all buy ATCs due to the frustration of self-rescue with a Mega Jul, since the Giga Jul was not on the market yet.). TR and Lead Belay in Assisted Brake Mode: Flip the switch to the “A” position and rotate the device around and it’s in the assisted brake mode. Feeding slack with the Eddy is both better and worse than with the GriGri. When you first pick up the Giga Jul off the rack you will notice its weight right away. It couldn’t be easier. Now that we know how it works, let’s look into how well (or not) it works. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. Carabiners that I've tried: Edelrid HMS Strike, Mammut Crag HMS, Singing Rock Bora HMS. Assisted braking devices – excluding the Petzl GRIGRI and Wild Country Revo – work by creating a higher degree of friction than tubular devices through the carabiner, pinching the rope between the device. However, for the same weight, you get two different styles of belay devices and the Gigajul is much cheaper than a GriGri. However, the same side-rubbing issue is found when taking in slack using a single rope, making it a bit less smooth. As an assisted braking device, the Giga Jul grants greater friction that bites down on the climbing rope when lead climbers fall. In this sense the Mega Jul is like a Grigri and great for belaying people working projects.